Kolkata

Sweet shop's, Sufi's and cell phones...

When many people think of Kolkata certain images are conjured in the mind. For myself, it has been an interesting experience. This picture kinda sums up some things that have stood out in my mind as I have observd over the last twelve years.

The Kolkata Sweet Shop, rather Mishthi Dokan, (in the backdrop on the right side of the photo) is something quite inseparable for the local Bengali's. Life without sweets such as Roshogulla, Kala Jamun, Shondesh and the likes would be pretty bane for the common Kolkatan. These are some of the common sweets that are part of any Bengali wedding, festival, party or function. Beyond that, you cannot really visit someones house without having to scarf down at least a piece or two. Some might even say, 'to experience Bangla Mishti is to experience Bengal.' Quite the delight to the taste buds...

(A fresh basket of Roshogulla)

Sufi's
The Kolkatan Muslim Sufi's are unique. With the majority of the Muslim population here adhering to commonly known Sunni Islam, you will find a vast majority of these folks involved in Sufi practices. As there have been many books written debating the subject, this is not the place to define what Sufism truly is. I can say from experience that a Kolkatan Sufi Muslim leans towards an almost evangelical pursuit of his Creator and God. Through the use of song, direct prayer of supplication (rather than only memorized Sunni prayer or homily), and the chanting and meditation on the beauty and characteristics of God. The Sufi often follows the way of Futtuwah (Pronounced Foo-too-wahh). Ibn al-Husayn al-Sulami says its 'When the Light of the hart is reflected in the beauty of the face, that beauty is Futtuwah'

The meaning of Futtuwah could be described as 'humble chivalry'.

In Tosun Bayrak al-Jerrahi's interpretation, The Way of Sufi Chivalry, he describes it like this:

Futtuwah is the way of the fata. Fatah literally means a handsome, brave youth. After the dawn of Islam, following the use of the word in the Qur’an, fata (pl. fityan) came to mean the ideal, noble, and perfect man whose hospitality and generosity would extend until he had nothing left for himself; a man who would give all, including his life, for the sake of his friends. According to the Sufi’s, Futuah is a code of conduct which was exemplary in the Prophets, Saints and intimate friends of God.

Just how different this was than what I had read, been taught, or the media influenced assumptions I had before meeting Muslim's in this region. I must say, I find it a great joy to learn from their history, culture and disciplines.

When I think of Kolkata, I can not help but remember the Sufi's.

I snapped this photo on my mobile a few weeks back as I was sitting at a stop light near my house. This green Taj, turban will often signify the Tarikah, Path/Denomination of his group.

The Mobile Phone
When I first arrived in Kolkata on the mid 90's there were very few folks who had a cell phone. Today it is so common that you can even see the Sheik's and Guru's using them. While outsiders may think of India as backward or technology deprived, the mobile phone has changed that. Even in the most remote of villages can the mobile be seen these days. Something that often shocks even the most avid travelers these days is seeing the Rickshaw-wallas of Kolkata who pull the hand-drawn Rickshaw, 'using their mobile phone.'

These three things remind me of Kolkata. Its recent and long passed history, with culture changing before our very existence.