Al-Qāhirah القاهرة The Triumphant

Crossing the Nile

By popular demand ( ha ha.... I know, no one actually reads this blog... ) I have decided to write a post regarding my adventures in Masr, (Egypt مصر).

Back in October two thousand and six, my family and I set out for a special adventure starting in Kolkata, taking us through Mumbai, Bahrain and finally on to Egypt. Once arriving in the beautiful city of Al-Qāhirah القاهرة (Cairo) we went straight to the heart of the town. In downtown Cairo, we stayed at a small hostel just a stones throw from the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. As the worlds largest cities go... Cairo ranks #16 according to Wikipedia. Also making it the largest metropolitan city in Africa.

We had a wonderful time in this beautiful city. The sights of tapestry and architecture, the sounds of Arabi music and language, the smell of Kebab's, date palms and fresh baked bread for Ramadhan. All of this and so much more. While we were there for some work related meetings, we did get out to the Bazaar in the afternoon's and evening's during our short stay.

Visiting the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar in the evening proved to be an adventure in itself. Traveling through the streets of Cairo by Taxi was a joy. Watching the people, interaction and landscape was mesmerizing. I had dreamt of this city for many years, but now I found myself looking into the eyes of its inhabitants. In the Bazaar itself there were people selling wares of every sort. Lined upon the streets in the evenings were small cafes where numerous men and women sat to drink tea and smoke fruit flavoured Sheesha, (شيشة). Both the hospitality and warm respect of the local Arab's was very enjoyable.

From our initial quarters in the center of Cairo one could see Muhammad Ali's Mosque in the Citadel of Salahideen in Old Cairo. The Citadel of Salahideen was in the backdrop of rooftops covered with sattellite dishes, too numerous to count. In this ancient Islamic city, bustling with more than eleven million people there are constant signs of an ever changing society. Seeing the billboards, satellites and modern wares was just a small glimpse on our short stay.

As I will remember much of my time in Cairo, there were two memories that I will forever cherish. After staying in the center of the city the first night, we went south west to the outskirts of town for the next week. To get into the city one had to cross the Nile River. Crossing the Nile itself was a blast. As we entered this little wooden ferry boat I could not help but think about the story of Moses. What must it have been like so many years ago for his Mother to place him in a papyrus basket, covered in tar and pitch? What must she have felt as she waited from a distance watching it among the reeds along the bank? Then as we rode along slowly in this ferry I was deeply encouraged thinking of the faithfulness of the God of Moses. That He had preserved his life in the midst of what could have easily been lost to such danger. Perhaps these thoughts and the reminiscent nostalgia of it all was what made this journey so memorable.

The other event that has been etched into my mind is my trip to Al Azhar, (the inarguable centre of Islamic learning). That day a friend and I started off early with a bus ride to the banks of the Nile. From there we would cross by ferry and find a taxi from the eastern side. It was Friday and we were headed to Jummah Prayers. Off to visit the Mosque and see the University and its surrounding area. Crossing the city and labyrinth of Bazaar's turned out to be exciting. Along the way we met several nice Egyptians that engaged us in conversation. Once arriving at Al Azhar we washed up and went inside to look around. We shot a few photo's here and there and then went into the inner sanctuary. Just about then, the Grand Mufti of Egypt, Sheikh Ali Gomaa was beginning his Khootbah (Sermon). While my Arabi is limited, I could catch that he was sharing from this verse in the Qur'an:

024.035 اللَّهُ نُورُ السَّمَاوَاتِ وَالأرْضِ مَثَلُ نُورِهِ كَمِشْكَاةٍ فِيهَا
مِصْبَاحٌ الْمِصْبَاحُ فِي زُجَاجَةٍ الزُّجَاجَةُ كَأَنَّهَا كَوْكَبٌ دُرِّيٌّ
يُوقَدُ مِنْ شَجَرَةٍ مُبَارَكَةٍ زَيْتُونَةٍ لا شَرْقِيَّةٍ وَلا غَرْبِيَّةٍ
يَكَادُ زَيْتُهَا يُضِيءُ وَلَوْ لَمْ تَمْسَسْهُ نَارٌ نُورٌ عَلَى نُورٍ يَهْدِي
اللَّهُ لِنُورِهِ مَنْ يَشَاءُ وَيَضْرِبُ اللَّهُ الأمْثَالَ لِلنَّاسِ وَاللَّهُ
بِكُلِّ شَيْءٍ عَلِيمٌ
024.035 Allah is the Light of the heavens and the earth. The Parable of His Light is as if there were a Niche and within it a Lamp: the Lamp enclosed in Glass: the glass as it were a brilliant star: Lit from a blessed Tree, an Olive, neither of the east nor of the west, whose oil is well-nigh luminous, though fire scarce touched it: Light upon Light! Allah doth guide whom He will to His Light: Allah doth set forth Parables for men: and Allah doth know all things. Al-Qur'an, 024.035 (An-Noor [The Light])

After the Khootbah and a short time of prayer everyone began to depart the inner sanctuary. I walked with my friend into the courtyard where we sat and spoke with several Egyptians. Finally, sitting on the Arabian carpets of Al Azhar and chatting with a local surgeon who gave me some medical advice for my back. I was most enriched to meet the people of Cairo. I will forever remember these moments.

(The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, off to the left. This photo was taken from the balcony of our hotel.)

Off in the distance is the Masjid of Md. Ali in the Citadel of Salahideen, Old Cairo. This photo was also taken from the same Balcony.


Al Azhar Al Sharif





















Adrah Al Azhar






















The courtyard of Al Azhar Masjid

Inside of Al Azhar Masjid

Of lesser importance was our trip to Giza. While the pyramids are a must for any traveler to Egypt, I cannot lie, we only made this trip on the way to the airport. While the shear size and enormity of the pyramids was indeed breathtaking, I cannot help but think of the incredible loss of life and suffering that was experienced in order for have them built.

Two of the pyramids and the Sphinx.

old friend of mine....



















Tahrir Masjid in the heart of Cairo.